Madhya Pradesh occupies perhaps the oldest part of the subcontinent. Close to Bhopal at Bhimbetka are the pre-historic caves that preserve some fascinating paintings dating back to Paleolithic times. Experts have concluded that these are at least as old as the specimen at Pyrnees. This was perhaps one of the earliest dwellings of human beings. In fact, the excavations here have revealed a cultural sequence right from the late stone age to the early historical period. Madhya Pradesh is the richest state in the country in respect of painted rock-shelters, the majority of which have been found in the districts of Sehore, Bhopal, Raisen, Hoshangabad and Sagar. Chandels were the dynasty claiming descent from the moon, who carved out a strong prosperous kingdom for themselves. There was a short spell of inspired construction activity under the Chandels in the 10th to 11th centuries. They are the ones who have left behind the cluster of matchless temples at Khajuraho.

In the temple architecture of India, the Khajuraho complex remains unique. One thousand years ago, under the generous and artistic patronage of the Chandela Rajput kings of Central India, 85 temples, magnificent in form and richly carved, came up on one site, near the village of Khajuraho. The amazingly short span of 100 years, from 950 AD - 1050 AD, saw the completion of all the temples, in an inspired burst of creativity. Today, of the original 85, only 22 have survived the ravages of time; these remain as a collective paean to life, to joy and to creativity; to the ultimate fusion of man with his creator.

Whatever the reason behind the existence of the temples, for many centuries after the decline of the Chandelas in the 13th century, they lay forgotten. The dense jungles around advanced and hid them from the world. Many were destroyed, others fell victim to wind, weather and neglect. Khajuraho was rediscovered only a few decades ago and opened to tourists. Basic tourist infrastructure and an airstrip contributed to making the temples accessible to the world. The temples underwent a painstaking process of cleaning and restoration to bring them back to their original glory. Today, the wonder that is Khajuraho is India's gift to the world.

The three main compartments of the temples are the entrance or ardha mandapa, the assembly hall, or mandapa and an inner sanctum, garbha-griha. There are in some of the more developed temples, further additions to these three. The axis of the temples is from East to West, with the entrance on the East, approached by a flight of steps.

If the temples of Khajuraho can be said to have a theme, it is woman. A celebration of woman and her myriad moods and facets. Writing letters… applying kohl to her eyes… dancing with joyous abandon… playing with her child. Woman - innocent, coquettish, smiling - infinitely seductive, infinitely beautiful. Depicted in a wealth of detail, sharply etched, sculpted with consummate artistry.

Temples to visit

• The Kandariya Mahadev

• Chaunsat Yogini

• Devi Jagadambe Temple

• Chitragupta temple

• Vishwanath Temple

• Nandi Temple

• Lakshmana Temple

• Varaha Temple

• Matangeswara Temple

• Parswanath

• Ghantai Temple

• Adinatha Temple

• Brahma, Vamana & Javari Temples

• Chaturbhuj Temple

• Duladeo Temple